Crates

Why do I have to crate my puppy?

Puppies will chew anything!! Not only can they ingest or chew something that could kill them, if they destroy something of value, you are also saving them from your wrath. Your relationship can be destroyed, or at the very least certainly impaired, if you continually come home screaming at your dog because of what you find when you arrive.

When correctly and humanely used, a dog crate has many advantages for both you and your dog.

1. You can enjoy complete piece of mind when leaving your dog in the house alone, knowing that nothing can be soiled or destroyed and the dog is comfortable, protected and not developing any bad habits.
2. You can housebreak your dog much quicker by using the close confinement to encourage control of its bladder, establishing a regular routine for outdoor elimination, and to prevent ‘accidents’ at night or when left alone, since the dog will avoid soiling its ‘den’ if at all possible.
3. You can effectively confine your dog at times when it might be underfoot (meals, for instance), or unwelcome (workmen), or ill.
4. You can travel with your dog without risk of distraction to the driver or flying through a window because of sudden stops or accidents, even small ones. It also minimizes the possibility of the dog getting loose and lost, and with the assurance that your dog will more easily adapt to any strange surroundings as long as its familiar ‘den’ is along. It can retreat to it when it is tired or stressed.
5. Avoid much of the fear/stress/punishment caused by your reaction to problem behavior.
6. The dog is spared the frustration and isolation (basement, pen or boarding kennel) when the whole family is together or gone on a family outing.

For what length of time can my puppy be crated without having to be let out for a potty break and exercise?

2 -4 months old - 2 -3 hours

5 - 6 months old - 4 hours

6 months 1 year- 5-6 hours

1 year to adult - maximum 8 hours

Bottom line, if you work, you MUST be able to come home to relieve your puppy, or even adult dog...or you must employ a dog sitter, ask a neighbor to help, take the puppy to daycare, etc.

My adult dogs still are not required to stay crated or unable to relieve themselves for more than 5-6 hours. I have a dog-sitter who is faithful about taking care of them every day while I am at work. If I am running late, I can call her and ask her to go let them out again. Is this costly? You betcha! But if I am going to live with dogs and work out of the home more than four hours a day and it is too far to come home if necessary, it would be cruel for me not to factor a dog sitter into my expense budget.

What are the different crate types?

There are crates called "Lifestyle Crates" that provide you with a middle barrier to keep changing the size of the crate as the puppy grows. You can also use boxes in the crates to take up more room, but cardboard and plastic boxes are easily destroyed and can be great entertainment for a young, bored puppy. I have found, however, that these crates do not use as strong a wire as some others and can be problematic with an older dog, especially males, who are strong enough to bend wires to get out of them as adults.

There are also closed crates called Vari-Kennels, that are more den-like that are the safest crates to use. They cannot get to items that may be outside the crate but still accessable (like tablecloths, wall coverings, etc.). These crates used to be some of our only options, but now we have a huge variety.

Suitcase crates are your best option if you plan on only one crate that will be moved to different areas of the house or utilized for both the house and car. They fold up within seconds to a suitcase size that is easy to carry. The only downside is that you have to make sure they are secured when upright so they don't collapse on your dog and they are a little more costly.

Drop-pin crates are the most reasonable, but if you ever have to take it apart and set it back it, I can assure you it is a pain in the tush and not worth the few dollars saving. There are also very decorative drop-pin crates that are very expensive, but nice for your decor (i.e. rattan).

2-Door crates are your most versatile. They have an end door and a side door that makes it much easier for you to figure out the best spot for your crate because the side door allows you to put the crate flatter against a wall so it isn't in the way so much. Those are now the only crates I will buy because of their versatility.

I now utilize crates made by J-B Pet that utilize an old-style door that doesn't swing open like a door...instead if folds up to the top of the crate inside. Not only does this eliminate space needed for opening the door, but it is the safest and most effective containment since there is no way the dog can open the door himself. It also comes with a 2-door option.

Crate Sizes for Adult Male Ridgebacks

48" long for house

42" long for car

(You can get away with smaller crates in a car because you want them to be more confined so there is less chance of them hurting themselves with any type of fast stop or collision)

Crate Sizes for Adult Female Ridgebacks

42" long for house

36" long for car

Why do I need a crate for transporting?

My personal opinion is that you MUST crate or AT LEAST provide a suitable barrier that your dog cannot penetrate if you should make a fast stop to keep them from being catupulted into the front windshield or window. There are many manufacturers who provide these barriers for all types of vehicles...and there are even vehicle manufacturers who make them as an add-on accessory.

I realize not everyone will have a vehicle that can hold a crate, although if you have a big dog, it is an investment you shoud take seriously for transporting your dog. If this is not an option and your dog will be riding in the back seat of a car, make sure you invest in a good, safe harness situation. I know of way too many dogs who end up going through the front windshield and even side windows with even a fast stop. It is a dangerous situation for you and your dog. Just make sure they are familiar and comfortable with the harness before you are driving and would have difficulty if they get stressed and get tangled.

The cheaper crates work fine in a vehicle because they generally aren't confined for long periods of time and it is a secondary confinement. Finding one that fits in your vehicle is another issue, but all the manufacturers give you the dimensions so you can find one that suits your vehicle and dog size. The crates also don't have to be as large for your vehicle as when they are crated at home for longer lengths of time. Besides, the less movement they are allowed in a crate in a vehicle, the less chance for them to get hurt in even a fast stop or fender bender.

What is the best resource for crate and exercise pens?

I have done alot of shopping for crates and exercise pens and, so far, the catalog and internet provider of pet supplies, J-B Pet at www.jbpet.com, I've found to have the best variety and prices. If you find out a better resource, please let me know. Of course the fastest is a PetSmart or PetCo, but not necessarily the cheapest. I am told, however, you can take a catalog into one of the stores and they will match the price, but I've never tried that because I think shipping costs and such are also factored in.

Will my dog want to be in his crate?

That depends on the dog, how much time he spends in the crate, and how you habituate him/her to the crate. Most dogs like a den they can sleep and feel safe in and their association with being crated will help determine how comfortable they are being crated.

I would start out by feeding meals in the crate so they associate good things with the crate right from the beginning. I also believe in hand feeding puppies for more dependency on humans so you can alternate males with hand feeding and crate feeding.

In the beginning of crate training, I would only leave them alone in a crate for short periods (15 minutes) and provide them with a hollow bone (they are natural bones that have been sterilized) you can fill with cream cheese or peanut butter, or a kong with treats stuffed in it, or any of those new fangled toys available these days that keep them occupied for at least 5 minutes. Studies have proven that anxiety levels of dogs left alone are worse the first 5 minutes, so if you can keep them occupied during that time so they really don't notice you are gone, they will generally settle down much easier.

Gradually work up to longer periods of time being left alone in the crate.

I would also NOT make a big deal out of leaving, like saying bye-bye and cooing over them before you leave, and then suddenly disappear. Don't make your leaving such a predictable routine either so when they see the visible signs (i.e. putting your makeup on, picking up your keys, turning lights out, etc) they start getting anxious before you are even gone.

My dogs think my leaving is GREAT because it means they will have fun stuff as soon as I am gone. I also don't speak much to them before I leave...or even when I come home. I sometimes take a few minutes doing other things when I get home, in fact, so my arriving isn't such a fanfare as well.

Bottom line, you should associate as many good things happening with the crate as possible.